Maybe this is too late, but the Ueno district is pretty interesting - it's one of the older residential districts, not all the bright neon you expect. Lots of interesting wooden buildings, small neighbourhood restaurants, that sort of thing. There's a zoo, which is nice, if you're into that kind of thing. We stayed in a ryokan and early in the morning, or maybe late at night, I heard a clip-clopping sound. Peeked out the window and there was a little old lady walking down the cobblestones in wooden geta...not my image of Tokyo c. 2000, that's for sure.
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