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Old 03-27-2007, 01:28 AM   #1
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Default Climbing at Yosemite

Ok, so i'm moving to the big U.S of A at the end of the year (providing there are no problems with visa applications and finding a job) and I would really like to do a bit (ok, a lot) of climbing while i'm there. At the moment I'm leaning towards somewhere around the San Francisco area.

So, my question is, what's the climbing scene like around the San Fran area, particularly Yosemite National Park? I know Yosemite is famous for it's massive walls, but are there any smaller sport routes around the park? What type of climbing would I come across - crack, slab, etc? Is it mostly trad or sport routes? Is it majorly busy?

Any info would be geatly appreciated.

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Old 03-27-2007, 03:56 AM   #2
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i'm not sure, but i think america is a lot like europe in that theres alot more sport than trad.

have we got any san fran climbers who can help a bru out?
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Old 03-27-2007, 06:14 AM   #3
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naw naw... alot of trad routes man. Sport routes on beautiful places is a no no. It's gaucky and takes away from the thrill. You'll need a full rack...aka cams and quickdraws and octagons to be able to fully appreciate climbing stateside.

El cap and yosemite are like mecca central for climbers. If yosemite is anything like the other crags i've hit around this country then there is plenty for everyone of every ability.
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:09 AM   #4
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my bad
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Old 03-27-2007, 02:53 PM   #5
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crap, i'll only have very very limited trad experience by the time i get over there and an equally small amount of trad gear, if any. I do agree that bolts are an eyesore, but man they make climbing accessible and safe. Trad kinda worries me a little.

What about American climbers? Do you find they are friendly enough and let any keen climber into their climbing circles, or do they only really like to climb with those they know well??
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Old 03-27-2007, 03:54 PM   #6
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I've been looking into getting into climbing (though I have to get into MUCH better shape) and so far I've found the climbers I've talked to very open and encouraging... A couple have volunteered to take me to an indoor rock climbing center to start getting me going. They're addicted to the sport and want to share it.

I couldn't tell you the difference between trad/sport/etc., but I can tell you that Northern California has plenty of places to climb besides Yosemite.

Here's a handy link:
http://www.bayareaclimbers.com/start.html
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Old 03-27-2007, 05:24 PM   #7
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yeah climbers are a very open group man. You just have to prove your worth and gain their trust before they let you belay them! My group of friends in colorado learned that the hard way with an asshole who told us he knew what he was doing. My roommate would have been killed if someone hadn't jumped and grabbed the rope.

Instead it was the idiot who lied to us about his belaying experience that almost bit the dust that day...
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Old 03-28-2007, 12:49 AM   #8
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Well, my next question was going to be what other climbing is there around San Fran, but thanks to that link omi and a bit of google research i've learned that there is a shite load of climbing around the area, particularly at Castle Rock State Park near Santa Cruz.

That's good to know about the positive climbing scene over there, climbers being a friendly bunch must be a global thing.

I'm now absolutely sold on the San Francisco idea, now i've just gotta find a job in the GIS/mapping area and i'll be set.

Thanks heaps for your help guys!!
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:33 AM   #9
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Castle Rock is a great area. The actual rock itself isn't very big (no more than 5m high) but is so crazy shaped that a lot of climbers use it for practice to work on their technical moves.

Looking forward to you coming out here! And I believe the Santa Cruz area is good for GIS work - I knew a couple of people in that field years ago who worked that area, via UC Santa Cruz and Stanford University. Also, the USGS (US Geological Survey) has a lot of offices throughout the region.
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Old 03-28-2007, 05:51 PM   #10
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That's very good to hear about the GIS work over there, very good indeed. Looks like i shouldn't have too much trouble finding work at all.

So, whip out those runners omi, you've got 6 - 8 months to get fit!!
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